Section A - Cooling System, continued.....

Subject: Re: DI water - Technical Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 15:21:07 -0700 From: Bob Palmer To: , pamelam@connix.com CC: tiger list References: 1

At 02:33 PM 8/11/99 -0700, Steve Laifman wrote: >WARNING! This material is of a highly technical nature, and has a tendency to >make one's head hurt. There are a lot of big words used, but that's >unavoidable >as I am not smart enough to know the small ones, nor eloquent enough to be >briefer. - {9-> Steve
snip, snip, snip . . .
>Bob Palmer may be fresher at this than I am. > >Steve >
Not much Steve. However, you're comments are pretty close to what my understanding of this is. Of course, they may not have told us everything there is to know in Freshman Chemistry, even though I know we thought so at the time. ;-)
When I get a chance, I'll bend one of our electro-chemists ears here at UCSD and get a "second opinion". Of course, for the rest of the List, this is mostly a moot point. The bottom line is use as pure a water as you can get and add your own "ions" via rust inhibitor, coolant, water pump lubricant, etc. I seem to recall a previous discussion about the various additives in commercial coolants, which ones were best for aluminum, etc., but that was at least a year or so ago. In my particular case, I'm trying 100% water (plus the rust inhibitor/lubricant) instead of the 40-50% glycol based coolant I've been running, just to see if it works any better for me in terms of cooling efficiency. Let you know if I see any noticeable difference.
Bob Robert L. Palmer UCSD, Dept. of AMES 619-822-1037 (o) 760-599-9927 (h) rpalmer@ucsd.edu rpalmer@cts.com
Subject: Re: DI water - Technical Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 11:46:50 -0700 From: To: Carmods@aol.com CC: "Tiger's Den" References: 1

Carmods@aol.com wrote:
> Hi Steve, > Thanks for your chemical description of galvanic reaction. > > Would a zinc or magnesium rod inserted in the top of the reservoir tank of a > system with a copper radiator and an aluminum engine reduce the galvanic > reaction? Should the rod be grounded to the engine block, the copper > radiator, the reservoir tank or isolated from both? > John Logan
John,
Yes, it would, and yes it must be grounded though the tank/straps/body so make sure the mounting straps contain a good electrical connection (no paint) to the tank (no paint) over some reasonable length. There are conductive greases used for electronic equipment that may be available through an good electronics store, as well. If you do this in a reachable location, you can spray the assembly to seal the top area and joints from weather, or maybe underneath with a silicone bead around the tank bare batch.
Another approach, and maybe better, would be to take the tank out and silver solder/braze a copper stud to the tank and make a grounding strap. No corrosion worries on the bare steel.
The J.C. Whitney device is made to ground through the radiator cap, and can be removed through it. Nothing I've found at a boat store seemed to fit.
Steve

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Subject: RE: Heater Core Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 10:48:58 -0600 From: Theo Smit To:

Hi Steve,
Sure, you could take some sheet brass, fold it into a "T" or "I" shape, and then solder it to the inside wall, from one side to the other. You'd need to drill a few holes across the vertical part to allow water to flow across the new partition you just created, but that would work. Use a higher-temperature solder so it doesn't come off when you solder the tank to the core.
Theo > -----Original Message----- > From: Steve Laifman [SMTP:SLaifman@SoCal.RR.com] > Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 1999 9:51 AM > To: Theo Smit > Subject: Re: Heater Core > > Theo, > > I read a post about someone who re-inforced the side tanks (internally?) so > they > wouldn't bulge. Got any thoughts? > > Steve > > -- Steve Laifman B9472289 > Subject: Re: Heater Core Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 19:19:44 +0100 From: "Warwick Jones" To: References: 1

Cecil,
You have probably already sourced your new heater core (been away from the computer for a week!), but if not try looking up the Holden Catalogue on the web, In the printed version they advertise a replacement heater element for a Sunbeam Alpine / Tiger Part number 080.484, price £45.90!
They deliver world wide, and can be found at;
www.holden.co.uk
For info they also stock a good range of Lucas Electrical equipment!
Good luck
Warwick Jones UK
----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: 22 September 1999 14:15 Subject: Heater Core
> Hi all: > > My heater core is leaking. Any suggestions on where to acquire the same, and > anything I need to know about installation? > > Thanks > > Cecil > MK1A > > cooling
Subject: Re: Where does the air go? Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 22:17:59 -0700 (PDT) From: Tom Hall To: Steven Laifman

At 04:47 PM 7/3/96 +0100, you wrote: >I was looking at the pictures I took at Bakersfield, and have many of >the motor compartment of (I believe) your car. Everything that isn't >red is chrome, except for these very neat looking black meshed and >bezeled air vents behind the inside front wheel wells. Since there did >not appear to be any holes on your fenders, ala Le Mans, where does the >air go? I believe that the area behind the wells are dead space withno >outlet, but I am probably wrong. >Steve Laifman Dear Steve, If it's Red, it's obviously not my (Bette's) Tiger, 'cause its Med Blue all over, and has no engine vents. My White Pearl Tiger was there, and it has side vents similiar to a Cobra. The trick part is how you get the air out of the engine compartment without: 1. loosing the air to the open area between the inner and outer body panels. 2. opening this passage to the potential turbulant high pressure air in the fender wells. On the White Tiger, a 4" dia hole was cut in the inner panels, behind the booster and voltage regulator. The openings at the rear of the front fender wells was opened up and the passage between the top of the fender and the structural interior was closed using wadded paper covered with cold set roofing compound. This closed off the interior of the car to the hot air flow. (If you remove these screw on covers and drive the car, you will note a strong breeze from the edges of the dash board at the bottom. This is the passage that must be closed.) Next you form a new barrier panel in the fender to close off the wheel opening from the opening in the inner fender panel. at this point the air will pass between the inner and outer panels. On the White Tiger, the opening is on the outside to simulate a Cobra like effect and style. You can accomplish the same effect by opening the bottom edge of the fender to let the air flow out there. I don't know the relative effectiveness of either method, but you can feel the hot air coming out of my vents when the car is standing still. I know that it has to reduce the air stagnation in the engine compartment, same as the vents in the rear of the LAT optional hood.
Tom Hall
Subject: More Cockpit Heat Date: Tue, 16 Jul 96 13:40:24 -0600 From: STUART_BRENNAN@hp-andover-om3.om.hp.com To: tigers@autox.team.net

Item Subject: cc:Mail Text Old timers on this network may remember the discussions about heater valves over the winter. I had found mine to be leaky (as in not shutting off, not dripping on the ground), and replaced it with the Tiger Technologies part. Well, heading for British Car Day this weekend, I got to do my first hot weather drive with the valve in place, and it made a noticeable difference. I could open the heater and get more relatively cool air on my toes. It ain't AC, but it's better. So, along with air leaks (see my comment a week or so back), check for leaky heater valves. I haven't had a shot at the "lifted rear of the hood" test yet, to see if this will help cool things off, but I hope to get it in within a couple weeks. Stu
Subject: Re: CAVITATION MUSINGS. Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 00:22:45 -0400 From: Jim Parent <76276.1555@compuserve.com> To: Tiger List

Guys,
Get a Ford SVO catalog, they list a water pump impeller for the 302/351's that is "cast iron high efficiency curved vanes to reduce coolant cavitations (partial vacuum) at high RPM.
It is part number M-8512-A302
They also have two pumps assemblies listed as stock unit with a stamped steel impeller and a NASCAR race pump with the aforementioned cast iron impeller.
There are also assembly kits (brass slinger sleeve bearing shaft, impeller seal, seand assembly, and fan hub), housings, and cover plate gaskets.
The SVO catalong is a wealth of info and engine sourcing for parts that are trick.
Regards,
Jim

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