Section A - Cooling System, continued.....

Subject: RE: Aluminum Radiators Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 09:25:49 -0700 From: Bennett Cullen-P21988 To: "'spook01@mindspring.com'" , "'Tigers'"

Subject: Aluminum Radiators (sorta long post)
Hi Ray, To answer your questions with my personal experiences with an aluminum radiator:
>How well do they work both moving and stationary? I live in Tempe Arizona and have been driving in ambient 123 degree summer heat. Under those conditions, stationary will tend to creep up on the temp meter pretty quickly. But, not to the point of puking fluid. On a normal 105 degree day it will take 15 minutes of idling to see a temp around 205 on the "calibrated" meter. Under normal running conditions, mine stays at 195 solid. Mine works well enough, that I was able to put an air conditioner condenser core out in front of it, and that sure makes life more enjoyable inside while taking trips (of course the air goes off and the top comes down when we get there for "cruising". On the way back from Big Bear last year, out on the desert it was hot enough (both air temp and radiated road heat) to boil the gas in the fuel line (read attempted vapor lock on cheap gas) before it got to the pump without over heating (air conditioner was on full) the engine. On that day, the meter was reading around 220 (the highest I have ever seen on it).
>Is there a full wrap shroud available with it? The stock Tiger did not have a lower half on the shroud. To make one go to the drug store and get a big sheet of construction cardboard, take a first guess at what it will take, cut and fit. If its too small in an area, use a stapler and put some of it back by overlapping the cardboard. Once you have one that "fits" pull it out and use it as a template to cut some sheet metal from the hardware store. I bought mine at an "ACE" hardware. I attached my final lower half to the original shroud with a single sheetmetal screw (one on each side). The lower shroud tucks under the bottom of the radiator.
>Cost? $480.00 about three years ago.
>How long did it take to get? About three weeks. This totally depends on their work load and the time of the season. They build a LOT of radiators.
>Where did you get it? What is their phone number and location? The radiator is custom built by "Ron Davis Racing Products" on the West side of Phoenix. The address is: Ron Davis Racing Products 7334 W. 108th Ave Glendale, AZ 85307 (602)-877-5000
There are a lot of other "considerations" to implement that will help the situation out a bit. They include, closing off the holes on either side of the radiator with clear Plexiglas to prevent recirculating the hot air, a modified six blade "rigid" Ford fan blade (that has references on previous postings) with about 1/3 of the blade surface sticking outside the opening in the shroud. Seal the edges of the shroud contacting the radiator with sticky backed foam rubber to allow for a "low pressure" area to form inside the radiator/shroud compartment. It is this "low pressure" that sucks air through the radiator and is blown out the back by the fan blades. Run no more than a 50/50 distilled water and antifreeze mixture, error on the side of more water if you are not sure. Calibrate your temperature meter so you know where you "actually" are operating. Check your ignition timing so as to minimize excess heat generation. AND AN ABSOLUTE MUST if you use an aluminum radiator, put some zinc or magnesium metal in the system as a sacrificial anode for the electrolysis to eat-up. Several auto parts stores sell chrome plated (outside) thermostat housings that are almost pure zinc. They are cheap, $10 (relative to the radiator) and easy to change out and discard every couple of years. Use a normal pressure radiator cap (for other considerations, i.e. heater core). Use a thermostat, (mine is a 180 degree) with 4 additional 1/8" holed drilled through the area outside the valve. All of these valves require 15 degrees to move from where they are rated (start of opening) to where they are fully open. I have not found even one exception to this observation. Hope this helps,
Cullen Bennett (B9472658) Tempe, Arizona USA P21988@email.mot.com

Subject: Re: Waterpumps? Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 08:53:54 -0700 From: Steve Laifman To: Stig Ram CC: tigers@autox.team.net References: 1

Stig Ram wrote:
> I´ve changed (tried to) the waterpump on my Tiger Mk 1.----.After a lot > of this
> and that I found that the Workshop manual > said 5,15 inch (130,82 mm) between the engine mating surface and the > waterpump Hub-pulley. I measured 131 mm on my new pump as well as on > another Tiger pump. But my old ( not reparable) pump has approx. 125 mm! > And is perfectly aligned w. the crankshaft and generator pulleys! So now > to the QUESTION(s): > What engine does I have?
> :-) Stig Ram > Ps. My SnowTiger as well as my Alpine SV is presently hibernating, > awaiting the Spring, Its cold here.
Stig,
I have found data that suggest the venerable Official Workshop Manual is in error in this measurement. It does indeed list 5.15 inches for the MkI, MkIA 260, and 5.43 inches for the MkII 289.
My information says the "correct measurements" should have been 4.875 inches for the MkI/IA, and 5.1 inches for the MkII.
Hope this helps.
Steve
-- Steve Laifman B9472289

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