Section A - Cooling System, continued.....

Subject: Repeat of Electric Fan Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 11:26:22 -0700 From: Steve Laifman To: "Tiger's Den"

I apologize for re-sending this message, but Mr. Flynn's original had lines 150 characters wide. I presumed my mail program would truncate the reply, as seen on my screen. It didn't. Both his message and my reply were really strung out long. Difficult to read. If yours came through ok, then scrap this, but it's worth retaining, if you are considering this job.
Steve
rflynn wrote:
> Steve, > > I just read your 12-May-1998 "Fan-Tastic" post to the tiger list and had one question: > > Is the shrouding for these fans supposed to be in in direct contact with the front plane of the radiator? > > I ask this because 1) I've not been able to figure it out from *any* of the messages on the list; 2) I have an >electic fan on my recently aquired Tiger MKI w/289 but it has no shrouding at all; 3) the car runs like a champ in >all but bumper-to-bumper/mostly stop, rarely go traffic, in which it promptly overheats & possibly does the >vapor lock gig. I've yet to go through the list of things to check (hoses, radiator, etc., etc.), but I'm also trying to >learn about what I've got (or what is missing from what I've got!) > > Thanks in advance, > > rick
Rick,
I am presuming, form the information you've provided, that your 5 (6) bladed water pump fan shroud is in direct contact with your radiator already. On mine, which is in really good shape, I found that even the seal here isn't all that good. Next time you have it out, I'd consider a layer of 1/4 inch foam insulation tape around the edges. Get the 'good' stuff. Cullen Bennett even made a small piece of aluminum to complete the bottom missing portion of this shroud, with due care around the rack area.
As to the Electric Fan, it is absolutely essential that there be a shroud around the blades, and that the complete shroud be sealed to the radiator. But, this does NOT mean direct contact between the hard plastic fan shroud and the soft copper (or aluminum) fins and tubes. Further, I would never mount the fan to the radiator with either the plastic, or metal rod ties provided with some. These will rub through your radiator.
Hopefully you have a high efficiency, high flow rate fan. If not, I can recommend a good source. (see last paragraph)
My fan has snap-in feet that extend the shroud to a metal insert screw nut. It can, of course, be mounted horizontally or vertically. I chose to have the feet vertical. I attached a small aluminum angle to the unused crank arm box, and bolted the bottom pair of feet to it. The metal angle is only about 3 inches long. I spaced the bottom feet so that the top feet were in direct contact with the upper sheet metal. The whole assembly is mounted as close to the radiator as possible. The "tricky" part is finding exactly where those upper feet threads are located on the upper surface of the body inner sheet metal (this is the part of the body, just under the hood, that connects the front end to the radiator support and fenders, and has the holes in it for the hinges. When I located the location, I center punched and drilled a hole in line with where those feet would be if the fan were installed. The feet, of course, are perpendicular, and the body sheet metal is at an angle, only one edge of the foot touches the metal.
Doesn't matter, but if your clever you could file it to the same angle for complete contact. I used an aluminum pop rivet to fasten each of the upper feet to the body sheet metal.
The lower mounts, being directly below (vertical) the upper were shimmed with spacer washers to the angle bracket. This is a very firm support, and can be removed with a little poop-rivet drilling, but shouldn't be necessary except for replacement.
Now the tricky part. The fan shroud was still too far from the radiator for any reasonable sticky-back foam (3/4 inch is what I used). Didn't want to use two layers, but it's possible. I had some rubber trim from the Tiger trunk area that I used to extend the shroud forward. It will be necessary to attach the "U" portion to the shroud and cut out the portions interfering with the fan structure. Dykes (sp?) or hack-saw for metal insert type may be needed. I used those pop rivets to secure it to the shroud. This extension allowed the 3/4" foam to contact and compress against the radiator. Vibration does not scrub the fins.
The fan source is Scott Manufacturing, 25520 AVE. Stanford, STE. 304, Valencia, CA 91355. (805) 295-9340 or (800) 544-5596. Gary Wilson is our Tiger expert . I bought, under advice from Bob Palmer, their FR13A-3.75 Pusher fan with the "Terminator" motor. I also bought a quick connect, a relay base, the threaded foot kit, the terminator kit insulated 20 amp fuse with body-mount holder, a 25 amp toggle switch and a 40 amp relay. Didn't use the switch, as I found a SPST Lucas switch I put in the unused "choke" hole.
Need some wood working behind this to clear the Lucas switch. No biggie. The total cost was $120 plus $8 S&H and any appropriate taxes. Good unit, 12 amps, with a 3 3/4 inch over-all fan depth with this motor. No big pancake. The 13 inch fan is 13 3/4 by 14 inches, and is as big as your going to get in without major surgery. 1600 CFM.
Hope this answers your questions.
Regards.
Steve
-- Steve Laifman B9472289

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