Section A - Cooling System, continued.....

Subject: Re: HEATER HOSES Date: Sat, 26 Jun 1999 16:43:32 -0400 From: Stu Brennan To: "Daniel S. Eiland" , Tiger Email Network References: 1

I came across a couple pre molded hoses that fit really nice on my "1A" Tiger:
HEATER CORE TO HEATER VALVE: Dayco 80395. It has a 90 degree turn molded in at just the right place. Only one end has to be cut.
REAR OF CARB HEATER TO THE "T" NEAR THE FIREWALL: AutoZone 4101. Again, it has nice 90 degree bend, and is easily cut to fit.
Stu
Daniel S. Eiland wrote: > > I was looking through some of my notes from the list but could not find a > cross reference # for the molded heater hose. Does anyone know if there is > something off the shelf that can be used to replace the preformed heater > hose that hugs the firewall and goes to the heater valve? > Dan
Subject: Re: temp gauge Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 11:35:42 -0700 From: Bob Palmer To: netscott@earthlink.net, tiger mail

Scott,
Stu Brennan's temp and fuel gauge data given in Mark Olsen's Tech Tips Web page,
http://www.corpdemo.com/tiger/techtips/gageohms.html
is very helpful in diagnosing the accuracy of your gauges. At 200F (93.3C), the sender should be about 52 Ohms, and at 215F (101.67C) it should be about 40 Ohms. If you can find resistors of these values and substitute them for your sending unit; i.e., provide these resistance values to ground, the gauge should read the corresponding temperatures. You can use other resistance values in this range and interpolate the temperatures accordingly from Stu's data points. If the gauge reads more-or-less correctly, then you need to check the sending unit resistance versus temperature. For this you need an Ohmmeter and thermometer. Measure the sender resistance at one or more measured temperatures and compare with Stu's numbers and your particular gauge's calibration. Now, you really only need to follow this procedure if your gauge is reading incorrectly and need to determine whether it's the sending unit, the gauge itself, or both. So, it's probably best to just start by comparing thermometer and gauge temps and see if they agree. If not, follow the procedure above to diagnose the problem. If your lucky, maybe your gauge is reading a bit high. If both the temperature and fuel gauges are off, check the voltage regulator (should be 10V).
Good luck,
Bob
At 10:32 PM 6/28/99 +0000, netscott@earthlink.net wrote: >has anyone had this problem. it seems that as my motor get hotter the >water temp. gauge reads hotter. that is to say that when i first start >my motor my electric fan will go on at 200, after some time the fan goes >on when the gauge reads about 215. is it possible that the resistance in >the wire from the sending unit is changing with heat and is causing this >difference.(i have replaced the sending unit and it did not help) > >scott >B9472628
Robert L. Palmer UCSD, Dept. of AMES 619-822-1037 (o) 760-599-9927 (h) rpalmer@ucsd.edu rpalmer@cts.com
Subject: Re: temp gauge Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 11:37:22 -0700 From: Steve Laifman To: netscott@earthlink.net CC: tiger mail References: 1

netscott@earthlink.net wrote:
> ...(i have replaced the sending unit and it did not help) > > scott > B9472628
Scott,
While I cannot assist you with this specific issue, I do have a recommendation.
This automatic thermal switches have a SERIOUS problem, when they are not part of a factory installation that provides a screw-in boss. Generally, they are sensing cylinders that are pushed between tubes. Their accuracy relies on intimate contact with the tube surface. This requires a tight squeeze between tubes.
As you travel down the road, this sense element has the opportunity to 'wiggle' between the tubes, and it does. The resultant constant rubbing can actually wear thru the thin copper and you have a leaking radiator. NOT GOOD.
Just put a switch in. You'll know when your engine is running hot, usually in bumper-to-bumper on a hot day, and can turn it on. You can but a SPST (single pole single throw) Lucas switch that looks just like your others. It can be mounted in the plugged hole for the non-existent choke cable. You will have to widen the wood a little on the dash back side to assure the switch fits deeply enough that the knurled round nut fits on.
If your heating problem is more severe, and you find you are using this fan a lot in other than extreme conditions, you have other problems. The fans are usually ineffective over 30 mph, as the wind velocity of your speed brings so much more air in than a fan can.
Steve
-- Steve Laifman B9472289
Subject: Re: Air Dam Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 13:02:44 -0700 From: Steve Laifman To: robhogan@freewwweb.com CC: "Tiger's Den" , Tim Ronak References: 1 , 2 , 3

Robert Hogan wrote:
> Several years ago, while foraging for disposable drip pans (i.e. large > cardboard boxes), I found a 1/4" x 12" x 10 ft. strip of tranclucent > polypropylene flapper door material that had been discarded from a > furniture retailer. The cut, formed and painted plastic strip made an > excellently deformable air dam as it held shape under aerodynamic > loading and obstacle contact but did not transmit significant loading to > the supporting structure.
Robert,
You just reminded me that I have a twenty foot roll of vinyl in the garage I bought for very little from Home Depot. It was meant for a garage door bottom seal, and is about 4" deep, and very flexible.
A 1 inch light aluminum angle bracket from the same source could the attached to the bottom of the front cross member, just under the radiator, and the vinyl can be attached to it. Design completed.
Technical Specifications:
1) Length of angle not to exced space available.
2) Distance back not to interfere with moving parts.
3.1)Attachment of angle to crossmember by sheet metal screws, size 10, with washers, to the cross member.
3.2) Alternate method - use aluminum Riv-nuts, same size machine screw thread, so it can be bolted on and off easier.
4.1) Attach vinyl garage door bottom seal to the aluminum angle with 3/16 or larger aluminum pop rivets. Use aluminum pop-rivet washers under the head (vinyl side) to spread the load.
4.2) Alternate method, use strip of 0.030 aluminum strip same source) and "sandwich" the vinyl between the strip and the angle.
5) Designer's Fee: - Report back on design chosen, lengths used, parts cost and quantities, and effectiveness.
Cheap enough?
Steve


-- Steve Laifman B9472289

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