Section A - Cooling System, continued.....

Subject: Fan Diameter Date: Sun, 17 May 1998 22:50:28 -0700 From: Bob Palmer To: References: 1 , 2

Steve,
The overall shroud diameter is pretty close to 14". The fan itself is 13". Don't know what the current draw is, but this motor is probably a bit of overkill. You could select the next lower rating motor if you like. I'd discuss all this with the guy at Quest. He was very helpful with me and may remember or be able to look up my order for reference.
Happy engineering,
Bob
At 07:57 PM 5/17/98 +0100, you wrote: > > >Bob Palmer wrote: > >> Steve, >> >> WHOOPS!! I forgot that the 14" fan was too big and I had them send me the >> 13" assembly and sent back the 14". >> >> As for tranny and differential lubricants, I have been using Red Line >> Synthetic recently. They have a special version for limited slips. Back >> when I first installed the limited slip I got the friction modifier from >> Ford. That was many moons ago. Didn't know you had to kill a whale to make >> the stuff. >> >> Bob > >OK, forget the part about diameter, except diameter of what? Do you rem,ember >Overall dimensions? > >Steve > >-- > Steve Laifman B9472289 >
Subject: Re: Fan Mounting Date: Mon, 18 May 1998 13:17:56 -0400 From: STUART_BRENNAN@HP-Andover-om3.om.hp.com To:

HI Steve: I had no HARD evidence that I should not mount the fan on the core, but here was my reasoning. 1. Somewhere in my memory, I encountered a story of someone mounting a tranny cooler on his radiator using a similar scheme, and developing leaks where the plastic things went through the core. Despite his best efforts, the cooler did, apparently, wiggle just a bit. 2. I had just lost a second radiator on my '78 Mercury wagon, to metal fatigue. The big rubber mounts had that hold the radiator shrunk over the years, letting it wiggle fore and aft just a bit. Finally, the solder joints where the tubes go into the end tanks broke down, leaving me with the feeling that radiators aren't all that strong. 3. Mine is still the original core, from 1967. The less stress on it the better. Since I was going to have everything apart anyway, the brackets seemed like no big deal. Stu

Subject: FW: Aluminum Water Pump Date: Thu, 21 May 1998 06:07:07 PDT From: "Fraser,Ron" To: tigers@autox.team.net


Alicia & Dan This is the note I sent out last summer.
The Tiger 260 Alum water pump is a standard Ford alum water pump which fits any Fairlane , Falcon or Mustang 260 or 5 bolt 289, but has these changes.
1. The front hub, where the fan mounts, is a 59 Mercury part with a 1 inch diameter center that fits the original four blade fan with a 1 inch diameter center hole. C4JE - 8501 - A water pump B9ME - 8553 - A hub C4JZ - 8600 - B Fan
Do you still have the original water pump, hub, and fan for a Tiger?
2. The distance from the pump face to the hub is Tiger specific. See the Shop Manual then check your pump. Please note the numbers for this distance are NOT correct in the Manual, so check your pump. Also check that when the pump is on the engine that the fan belt is straight between all the pulleys. This is another indication that you have the original parts or at least the right distance.
Distance in the Manual 260 5.15" 289 5.43" Correct Numbers 4.875" 5.1"
The source of the correct numbers is "The Sunbeam Survivor" from TE/AE.
As far as I know the alum and cast iron pumps are not interchangeable.
You can upgrade your water pump with the Ford Motorsport water impeller, M - 8512 - A302, but you need machine shop work and welding to accomplish this. The Motorsport impeller reduces cavitation and should reduce water temperature of the Tiger by 5 to 10 degrees. Here is a brief description of how to install the Motorsport impeller.
First disassemble the water pump and measure the length of the original water impeller. The Motorsport water impeller snout is shorter than the original, cut the snout off the original impeller longer than needed, machine cut end flat and square, weld snout to the Motorsport impeller, machine to correct length, check rotating balance of this new assembly.
If you do not have the original hub for the water pump, machine the hub you have for the 1 inch diameter needed for the original fan. If you do not have the original fan you may have to machine the hub to obtain the correct distance for the hub to the impeller.
Assembly the water pump with new seals and bearing, set the correct distance of the pump face to the hub. Dry check the pump on the engine with the pulley to make sure all the pulleys are aligned.
Ron Fraser B382000009
Subject: RE: Fans Date: Sun, 31 May 1998 16:48:59 -0700 From: "Bob Palmer" To:

Steve,
I hope you will excuse my delay in responding; it's been more hectic than usual these past few days. Anyway, sounds like you pretty much have it whipped as far as mounting the fat itself. As far as the upper two screws, mine are about 1.375" forward of the lip of the sheetmetal and far enough back that they are behind the thicker part of the hood, so there is not such a clearance problem. (I have a couple of bottom head stainless screws and no special "wedge" shaped washer, etc. Maybe the pop rivet idea would be a good way solve your problem.) The top of my fan is closer to the radiator than the bottom. Also, I used no additional angle brackets or such, just the existing sheet metal, for mounting purposes.
I suppose by now you have had a chance to power the fan up and see how it blows. It is a good idea to have a power on indicator light that is visible in the cockpit because otherwise it is easy to forget that you have it turned on.
I'll be looking forward to hearing how this project all turned out.
Best regards,
Bob
> -----Original Message----- > From: > Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 1998 12:03 AM > To: Bob Palmer > Subject: Re: Fans > > > Bob, > > Just got to thank you. $120 later my 13" permanenet magnet, > straight blade fan > "kit" arrives, complete with little stand-off mounting feet with brass > threadserts, power relay and relay socket, fuse and holder, > switch, wire, mating > connector for fan connector. Everything but a light. Thinking of > putting the > switch behind the dash, maybe the self-lighting kind with a > transparent paddle > handle. I bought 8 feet of 1" aluminum 1/8 thick angle. > > Now, where in the H-ll did you put the aluminum angle brackets > you spoke of, and > are so nicley drawn in the "Installation Hints"? Once those 1" > extender feet > are on (the only way to screw this to anything) youve got two > choices. Feet at > top and bottom, or feet at side. > > With the feet at the side, the aluminum braktes can mount fairly > well at the top > of the header, but they don't want to lay parallel on anything > you can mount it > on at the bottom, and all that bracing on both sides obstructs a > lot of flow. > > Putting an aluminum brace at the top is easy enought, provided > you move it low > enough to clear the upper sheet metal. Of course the fan now > will intersect > with the "crank arm" tube. It's a wonder you didn't buy the 10 > inch model. > > Anyway, I sort of solved it. I used about 8 inches of that 8 > feet of angle, and > mounted it on that "crank-arm" square tube. Mounted the "bottom" > feet to it. > The top feet now just hit the sloping upper sheet metal. After measuring, > guessing, and lucking out, I managed to drill a couple of holes > forward of the > shroud bolt holes that actually lined up with the feet. that > allows a couple of > screws to hold the top "feet". > > Since the fan is vertical, as well as the feet, and the top upper > sheet metal > slopes forward, the screw cannot lay flat on the surface. This > means a set of > angle-cut washers to straghten both upper and lower contact on > each side. Then, > and now, if I close my hood those screws are going to push > through the inner > hood panel. Bummer. > > Got any of those special application engineering screws with > angled heads for > bolting non-parallel surfaces together? How about a 10-32 > stainless screw with > a swivel head? > > Actually, I am thinking of an aluminum pop-rivet that I can beat > the head flat > after I've tightened it up. > > Come now, how did you really get that thing in? > > Steve > > Steve Laifman >B9472289

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