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36. Pour the specified lubricant over the entire gear train whilst rotating the input shaft.
37. Place each shift fork in all positions to make sure that they operate correctly.
38. Use a new cover gasket and Install the cover. Coat the cover attaching screws with sealer, install and tighten to specifications.
39. Coat the 3rdl4th speed shift rail plug bore with sealer and install a new plug.
40. If the extension housing bushing and seal are to be replaced refer to Page 13.
41. Secure each shift rod to its respective lever with a spring washer, a flat washer and retaining pin.
42. Position the shift linkage control bracket to the extension housing, and install and torque the attaching screws to specifications.
43. Adjust the shift linkage as described on Page4, Fig.3.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
The problems related to the gearbox usually are
Excessive amount of noise: hard shifting: jumps out of gear; gears clash when shifting gears, and lubricant leakage.
If the car can be driven, road test to determine what is causing the fault. Before and during the road test make sure that the clutch is functioning correctly. Also make sure that the gear shift linkage is correctly adjusted.
Diagnosis guide
Gear noise
Some gear noise is to be expected in all except fourth gear. Comparison with another similar car is the only means of determining whether or not gear noise is excessive. Before removing the gearbox for correction of gear noise, determine by road test which gears are noisy under load, so that these parts can be thoroughly inspected when removed. Shifting out of reverse slowly will usually result in some noise just as the gears dis-engage. This is normal because of the gear pointing necessary for easy engagement. Noise when disengaging reverse indicates that the reverse idler gear is at fault. All tests must be made by disengaging reverse gear while car is still in motion.
Noisy in forward speeds
Low lubricant level.
Incorrect lubricant.
Gearbox misaligned or loose.
Gear relative to pertinent speed Involved, worn or damaged.
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Input shaft bearing worn or damaged.
Output shaft bearing worn or damaged.
Countershaft gear or bearings worn or damaged.
Input shaft gear worn or damaged.
Synchronizers worn or damaged.
Noisy in reverse
Reverse Idler or shaft worn or damaged.
Reverse sliding gear worn or damaged.
Shift linkage Improperly adjusted.
Bent, damaged, or loose shift linkage.
Shift levers, shafts, or forks worn.
Hard shifting
Clutch not releasing fully.
Shift linkage out of adjustment.
Bent, damaged or loose shift linkage.
Low lubricant level.
Incorrect lubricant.
Shift levers, shafts, or forks worn.
Synchronizers worn or damaged.
Jumping out of gear
Shift linkage out of adjustment, worn or loose.
Not enough over-shift travel (partial engagement of
gears).
Gearbox misaligned or loose.
Bent or worn shift fork, lever and/or shaft.
Worn input shaft pilot bearing,
End play, in input shaft (bearing retainer loose or broken,
loose or worn bearings on Input and output shafts).
Detent springs weak.
Detent notches Worn.
Worn clutch teeth on input shaft, and/or worn clutch
teeth on synchronizer sleeve. -
Worn or broken synchronizer.
Bent output shaft.
Sticking in gear
Clutch not releasing fully.
Low lubricant level.
Incorrect lubricant.
Corroded gear levers (shaft).
Defective (tight) input shaft pilot bearing.
Stuck detent plug.
Frozen synchronizIng blocking ring on Input shaft gear
cone.
Burred or battered teeth on synchronizer sleeve and/or
input shaft.
Gears spinning when shifting into gear from neutral
Clutch not fully releasing.
Binding input shaft pilot bearing.
Synchronizers not functioning.
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