Detach the valve spacer (6). taking care of the spacer spring washer (5) which is located under the valve head (4, inset). Remove the seal from the valve head.
Examine all parts, especially the seals, for wear or dis-tortion and replace with new parts where necessary.
To reassemble
Replace the valve seal so that the flat side is correctly seated on the valve head (4, inset). The spring Washer should then be located on the under side of the valve head, being held in position by the valve spacer (6)~ the legs of which face towards the valve seal. Replace the plunger return spring centrally on the spacer, Insert the thimble. (9) into the spring and depress until the valve stem engages through the elongated hole of the thimble, making sure the stem Is correctly located in the centre of the thimble. Check that the spring is still central on the spacer.
Refit new plunger front seal on to the plunger with flat of I seal seated against the face of the plunger. Fit a new rear
seal as shown if necessary. Insert the reduced end of the plunger into the thimble until the thimble leaf engages under the shoulder of the plunger. Press home thimble leaf (9).
Smear the assembly well with brake fluid (see General Data), and insert the assembly into the bore of cylinder, valve end first, easing the plunger seal lips in to the bore. Replace the push rod, with the dished side of washer under the spherical head, into the cylinder followed by the clrcllp (11) which engages into groove machined in cylinder body.
Replace the rubber dust cover.
Fill the reservoir with clean brake fluid and test the master cylinder by pushing the piston inwards and allowing it to return unassisted; after a few applications, fluid should flow from the outlet connection.
To refit
Attach the master cylinder (2) with flange spacer (3) to the bulkhead. Fit the pedal return spring (12) over the push rod, compress the spring and slide in the slotted spring cap (13). Fill with fluid, bleed the system and check for leakage by applying a firm pressure to the pedal and inspecting the “ line” and connections.
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SLAVE CYLINDER (Fig. 7.)
Description
The slave or operating cylinder works on similar principles to the hydraulic brake wheel cylinder and consists of the following parts
A main body or cylinder assembly inside which operate a piston (25) with cup seal (24) and spring (23). This assembly is retained in the cylinder by a circllp (26) and is connected to the withdrawal lever by an operating rod (28), incorporating a rubber dust cover (27) which, in turn fits around a groove in the cylinder.
A bleeder screw (21) provides the only means of bleeding the hydraulic system.
To remove
Disconnect the pipe (1) and remove the slave cylinder fixing screws. The push rod (28) and dust cover (27) may be left attached to the car.
To dismantle
Remove the circlip (26) from the bore and apply a LOW air pressure to the fluid connection to expel the Internal parts.
To assemble
Fit the cup (24) over the shank of the piston (25) with flat side of cup adjacent to piston shoulder.
Fit the spring (23) against its flange on the shank of the piston. Fit piston with cup and spring into cylinder. Compress spring and insert circlip (26).
To refit
Offer up the slave cylinder to its mounting, with the push rod entering the bore and fit the fixing screws. Stretch the large end of the boot on to the body.
Bleed the system.
BLEEDING THE SYSTEM
- Fill the supply tank with brake fluid and keep it at least a quarter full throughout the operation. If this is not done, air will be drawn in, necessitating a fresh start.
- Attach a rubber tube to the bleeder screw (21) on the slave cylinder, allowing the free end to be submerged in a little brake fluid in a clean glass jar.
- Slacken the bleeder screw and depress the clutch pedal slowly; tighten the screw before the pedal reaches the end of its stroke and return the pedal by hand to its original position.
- Repeat (3) until air bubbles cease to appear from the end of the tube in the jar.
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