The comments contained herein are the sole opinions of the contributors, and should be used with appropriate consideration of possible errors of omission, commission, or lack of sufficient information.
Section Editor - Larry Paulick
Section O - Body
Page 1
Door Hinges
Subject: Door Hinges
Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 22:38:23 -0400
From: James Barrett-
To: "Bob, Jerry (LBOB)"-
>What is the best way to deal with what appears to be a broken hinge pin.
>The hinge screws are not cooperating as far as removal, they appear to have
>been painted in place at least once before.
> Bob,
First apply PB Blaster. It is a foul smelling penetrating oil that breaks up rust as well. It is a yellow spray can. Most parts stores have it. Also excellent to use on rusted exhaust bolts. If you remove the kick panels you can squirt the threads of the screws from inside the panel. For the hinge screws: I use a section of a large Phillips head screw driver ( that exactly matches the screws). This is brazed into a socket. I then use an impact wrench while pressing very firmly on the tool. Alternative is a hammer driven "manual impact tool" that holds a large Phillips bit. This is a 1 1/2"dia by 6" long steel piece that has an impact driven ratchet function built in the end. You place the tool/bit in the screw slot and hit the end with a hammer. Just make sure you have the tool set to remove, not tighten the screws. Works almost as good as the air driven impact wrench.
You may have to disconnect the door stop first to allow the door to open enough to get to all the screws.
Using a regular big Phillips will only cause the heads of the screws to be hogged out. Some suggest adding valve grinding compound to the slot to assist in keeping the screwdriver in the slot.
James Barrett Tiger II 351C and others
Subject: Door Hinges
Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 23:33:49 -0400
From: James Barrett-
To: "Jay Laifman"-
..... Anyone have
>suggestions on what to use to replace the factory rivet that was in there
>holding on the door strap? I understand that it has to be small enough to
>fit in the hole in the door when the door closes.
>
>Jay
I use a stainless steel #10 Machine screw double nutted with flat washers.
James Barrett Tiger II 351C and others
Subject: Broken Hinge pin
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 12:49:19 -0500
From: "Ronak, TP (Timothy)"-
To: "'LBOB@chevron.com'"-
Bob or Jerry and Listers,
Here is how to remove those pesky rusted in screws.
1: Buy an impact screwdriver
2: Get an acetylene torch
3: Heat the pesky screw with the torch to ensure that you get it nice and hot.
Don't heat it quickly as you will turn the head to liquid and then you are in real trouble, just enough to turn it cherry red. Let it cool and then heat it again, let it cool completely and it should come out easily with the impact screw driver.
I used this process on old model-T's back when I restored them and it worked like a charm. The only problem is protecting the paint but you can use that stuff from Eastwood that you squirt out of a tube to protect the door jamb and the door shell. The process expands the screw when heated and it shrinks slightly again when it cools. This cycle is usually sufficient to "loosen" the screw.
Bye,
Tim Ronak B382000680
Subject: Hinges
Date: Thurs., 07 Oct 1999 01:44:23 PDT
From: "Chris Hill"-
Consequences:
I've done both doors on two cars, one v. rusty, one v. dry -- no difference, both a bear. I don't have either car at hand and am doing this by memory from some years ago, so someone correct me if I'm wrong here, but...
The consequences of shearing one of those screws can be severe. The screws on the body end of the hinge do not mount into the A-post metal itself or into weld captured nuts behind it. They pass through the hinge, through holes in the door frame sheet metal and screw into tapped holes in a thick metal plate that approximates the shape of the particular hinge (uppers = rough square, lowers = elongated triangle).
Cranking the screws in sandwiches the body metal between the hinge and the plate and friction is most of what counteracts the vertical force vectors of the door weight and those doors are heavy!! This is part of the reason they're so hard to get off, they were probably put ON with some sort of impact tool and I suspect some sort of Locktite.
So the suggestion about the aggressive penetrating oil is good (it worked for me, but NOT until I did it from the rear as noted in the other reply). And the heating suggestion sounds good, although I think that with care, THAT would work much more effectively from the rear of the screws also with less paint damage too.
But caution: those plates float free in the small vertically stacked sheet metal boxes that comprise the A-post, those screws are NOT that strong and at least one (I think the upper) of those two plates will NOT come out of the access holes (behind the kick panel). It seems to have had the A-post welded up around it!
So if you shear one of the screws on that hinge, you'll either have to cut into the A-post sheet metal to extract it to deal with drilling and retapping, or you can try to accomplish THAT through the small holes in the door frame with a plate that (remember) is not attached to anything and flops around.
Words just don't describe how impossible the second option seems on being confronted with it and the first just isn't a good idea, even if you could bring yourself to do it.
Proceed with caution!
C. Hill
Subject: Door Hinges
Date: Thurs., 7 Oct 1999 07:25:36 -0700
From: "Dobrowski, Robert S"-
I was comparing the door check strap rivets on my Tiger and my TR-6 and they appear to be very similar. These rivets are readily available for the TR-6. MOSS P/N 325-275 $0.65, Victoria British P/N 12-8189 $0.88. > ----------
> From: Jay Laifman[SMTP:Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 1999 7:51 AM
> To: alpines@autox.team.net; tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: Door Hinges
> >Larry writes:
> >Those hinges are tough to remove. Paint is not a problem, but rust
> >between screw and hinges is. Soak with WD-40 for several days, tap
> >with hammer, each day, and buy an impact screw driver. It has a
> >Phillips head, and at the other end, you hit it with a hammer, and it
> >turns screw, with damage to screw head.
>
> While that is true, that is only AFTER you remove the door strap. Unless
> you do that, you can't get the door open wide enough to get the impact
> screw driver in there.
>
> I just did this. Which of course raises a question. Anyone have
> suggestions on what to use to replace the factory rivet that was in there
> holding on the door strap? I understand that it has to be small enough to
> fit in the hole in the door when the door closes.
>
> Jay
Mirrors
Subject: Side mirrors
Date: Thurs., 7 Oct 1999 15:38:38 -0400
From: "Jim Morrison"-
To: "Michael M. Kelly
Michael,
The best and most expensive brand name mirrors come from
{http://www.talbotco.com/index.htm}
The original Talbot Racing Mirrors. Can't beat them, but can get look-a-likes for quite a bit less.
Jim Morrison
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael M. Kelly-
To: Sunbeam Tiger mailing list-Sent: Thursday, October 07, 1999 3:04 PM
Subject: Side mirrors
> Hello Listers,
> Could someone provide me with the name and source of the cool
> looking
> bullet shaped side mirrors that I've seen on many Tigers? Mine look
> like they
> are from something akin to an old Comet, although the PO told me they
> were period correct.
> Thanks, Michael B9471863
Subject: Side mirrors
Date: Thurs., 07 Oct 1999 17:06:50 -0400
From: "Fraser, Ron"-
To: "'Michael M. Kelly' -----Original Message-----
From: Michael M. Kelly [mail
To: mcgrathx@jps.net] Sent: Thursday, October 07, 1999 3:05 PM
Subject: Side mirrors
Hello Listers,
Could someone provide me with the name and source of the cool looking bullet shaped side mirrors that I've seen on many Tigers? Mine look like they are from something akin to an old Comet, although the PO told me they were period correct.
Thanks, Michael B9471863
Subject: Sore neck
Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 16:37:55 -0700
From: Steve Laifman - B9472289-
To: "Parlee, Brad (IndSys,SLS)"-
Brad,
My mirrors are there, on both sides, and are curved. I can see the lanes on either side of the car, as well as a piece of the car for reference. No blind spot on rear quarter, either. Don't know if yours are curved and angled thus.
Works fine for me.
Would like the Lucas style that were round, curved, slightly larger, and were outdated over the center of the front wheels, like on my 50's MG and Jag and Porsche. But they are a little dated for the '60s. Still available.
If you use flat mirrors, the field of view is too small, and you have to get used to the distance judging with the curved ones, but I like them. You could try the Senior mirrors, they are about an inch larger.
Steve --
Steve Laifman - B9472289
Subject: FW: Sore neck
Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 20:21:01 -0400
From: Larry Paulick-
To: Steve Laifman - B9472289-
Steve's post on mirrors are right on the mark.
Several years ago, I went to a site that told you how to adjust your side mirrors. Sounds simple, like we all know how to do this, well no, at least I did not.
The procedure for the left mirror, is to put your head on the left window, and adjust mirror so that you can just see the side of the car. On right side, put your head in center of car, and adjust mirror so that you can just see the side of the car.
The reason is that the in-car rear view mirror covers the center of the rear view, and the side mirrors, cover the sides of the car the center does not.
Sounds simple, and it really works to eliminate the blind spots of a car passing you.
Don't believe it, try adjusting your mirror this way, and have someone walk around car, and you will not have the blind spots, that you had before. Almost hit several people in 87 Vette, till I purchased convex mirror glass, and adjusted side mirrors as above. The car had terrible blind spots.
Larry
Subject: Mirrors
Date: Sat, 09 Oct 1999 10:31:57 -0700
From: Steve Laifman - B9472289-
To: Stu Brennan-
Stu Brennan wrote:
> I have flat Talbot style mirrors on the doors and they were totally
> useless, being too small, and impossible to adjust into a useful
> position. I got some cheap stick on curved mirrors that just fit on
> these, to give me a wide angle view. That green spec I can see in the
> center? A Kenworth right in my blind spot. They were way too curved.
> Stu
Stu,
I have experienced the same thing. Those blister pack stick-on after market mirrors are way too curved to be useful for anything but observing your kid in the back seat. Many of them a re plastic, to boot, and don't have the clarity or brightness off a good silvered glass. The original Talbot, and even the after market repros, have glass mirrors that are much less curved. I can recognize the make of the car 5 car lengths behind in the other lane, and, at least its presence 8 car lengths behind.
If your experience with these mirrors is limited to that type of fix, I wouldn't wonder you are disappointed.
The Tiger represents a particular challenge in finding just the right place to mount them. Originally, they were mounted on the top of the fenders, about 4 " forward of the windscreen. This was OK on the driver's side, but half the passenger side mirror was obscured by the parked windshield wiper. It didn't clear up until the mirrors were almost set over the front wheels.
I tried putting them on the doors, American Style, and the "A" windows obscured the view. Finally had someone hold the mirror against the door and move it, while I was in the driver's seat. The place I found, that works for me, is to avoid the "A" window interference by putting the mirror first at rear edge of the window, and then sliding the body down the door 3 3/4 inches at the center of the Talbot Jr. mounting base. This is more down the door than the typical American car, but those don't work on early models either.
With center mirror locking screw is loosened, and a friend rotates the mirror for the correct coverage. You will probably find the coverage is excellent, but you can't get a piece of the car body in view. The rear of the round ball mirror mount has a circular hole that the locking screw goes thru.
When you've rotated the mirror in (or out) 'till it stops, that bolt is hitting the inner hole. I used a small file and notched it in one place to allow the center screw to go beyond the circle. It really doesn't matter where, as long as you line up the mirror rotation to allow the screw shank to enter the hole. I was able to move the mirror head towards the body enough to see my door handles.
These are bright, and visible, and give you a 'fix' on where you are, versus what else you see in the mirror. Absolutely essential, and the main reason flat mirrors won't work. Don't worry about "Objects may Appear....", as you quickly get used to it. My rule - if I see ANYTHING, don't change lanes. Usually I can see well down the lanes on either side, If I take the effort to actually look.
Hope this helps. At least it may help those who haven't already bought flat ones.
BTW: You don't need that big base, as the short base has an internal body mount that connects with sheet metal screws (I recommend stainless), and is hidden by the chrome base.
I am told, by experts, that the American repro is a better quality material and chrome than the British repro. Of course nothing beats the original, if you've got $300/pair to spend.
BTW: The original LAT Talbot mirror option was 4"
-- Steve Laifman - B9472289
**
| 1 |
