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Self designed aluminum horn hole air blockers, with slot for horn, extended horn base, grommeted hole for wires, and double sticky tape mount of plates. Simply remove horn and trace the radiator header hole pattern on cardboard on other side.
Make an aluminum sheet plate about 1/4 in. larger all around and dry fit on
front side of radiator support. The edge closest to the side wall is the
tightest fit. Remove the horn bottom bolt and use the tongue plate to make a
steel or aluminum piece exactly the same, but 2 in. longer. Drill hole in
block-off plate for rubber grommet that will let the horn wires through. Put
the wires through the plate and the loose grommet, then insert in blocker.
There needs to be a slot in the plate exactly at the horn extender frame mount
level, but wider than the support bracket, as it goes through at an angle.
Paint both plate and tonque to suit taste before assembly.
(Design on last page).
Added Laifman Kustom Design air duct between under lower valance
inlet vents and over cross member and radiator bottom, with mounting to side
frame horns. Keeps all collected inlet air going through the radiator, and
prevents by-pass, or even recirculation of hot engine compartment air into
radiator inlet. Invisible, and no hanging "racy air dams" to catch
every road speed bump and parking lot wheel stop. The right inlet duct is
shown here, and the bottom of the radiator can be seen. This duct effectively
is aimed to pass the inlet air under the radiator! The jacking hole, on the
frame horns is visible, as well as the side piece of the air duct, and a
portion of the electric fan angle bracket. The pattern I used is dimensioned
in this article (Design on last page).
The vertical partial cut on the side is to allow some hand bending to cover the area between the vertical frame horns and the ends of the radiator (next picture shows this bending of the vertical cut curved to the side of the radiator, if you look closely. Belts and suspenders. The shaped front fits under the lips of the valence vent, but the final path is just sort of actually touching. More Home Depot double-sticky thick foam insulation is used to form the seal and prevent contact. Some self-adjustment with aircraft snips will be required as no two valences are the same, or even each side may be different. This is a "sneak" air dam that cannot be observed, will not hit the speed bumps or parking curbs, does not look like a rice-burner special, but absolutely prevents recirculation of hot air from the engine compartment and makes ALL the air entering the front go through the radiator.
The side plates are held on to the frame horns with pop rivets. The bottom plate is attached to the angle bends of the side plates after dry fitting the bottom plate and marking. Rivnuts were installed in the bottom panel, and bolts through the side plate bent angle. Titanium machine screws with 8 point heads make the whole thing good for 200 mph. Well. they look good. Paint to suit taste.
I used a coolant recovery system. The overflow mini 1 1/2 Qt. coolant return-recovery system mounted between surge tank and radiator on left fender. Interdynamics MCR-3, about $5 at Pep Boys. Need recovery type 13 psi cap. I used a Stant "Lever Action" safety pressure release. Most surge tanks do NOT have an overflow tube that is air/vacuum tight at the metal filler neck, no matter how well you do the hose clamping. Never intended to suck, don'tcha know. Probably needs brazing to tank neck, and perhaps a bead on the end to hold the hose on better. If you ever find those bolts for a tank strap, with the proper threads and a straight, unthreaded tip, let me know. It would be great for lining all that stuff up to R&R the straps. Really a pain, otherwise.
