Tiger Dash Restoration,

An Article by Joe Parlanti
April, 2002

Page 2

  • Stripping the old finish and Veneer

    I found that most of the contact cement used by the factory to glue down the veneer had dried and failed on my dash, so it was very easy to chip off of the veneer. If you have to use a wood chisel to get some of the stubborn veneer off, be careful to not gouge the plywood surface. After you’ve got everything off, give the dash a light sanding to smooth everything out. Here’s a shot of the cleaned-up dash.
  • Acquiring the veneer

The Tiger dash was covered with a burled walnut veneer. There are many types, colors, and styles of veneer available, but I chose the original burl walnut.

One of the best places to get the proper veneer is a mail-order woodworking supplier named Constantine’s. Constantine’s has a full-fledged catalog available on-line by following this link (www.constantines.com) . Burl veneer has virtually no grain and so it has to be backed by either another grained-type of thin veneer or paper. The veneer I used had the paper backing which simplified things considerably. You’ll also need good veneer glue or contact cement, cheap foam brush, and a roller to get out the air bubbles.

  • Veneering the dash

Cut the veneer (scissors work fine) leaving a few inches of clearance all around the dash. Do not attempt to cut any of the holes at this time. Brush the veneer glue onto the dash and the veneer and wait the amount of time specified on the can. Carefully lay the veneer on the dash and work the bubbles out using the veneer roller. Significant pressure should be applied to insure a good bond and no bubbles. Be careful around the edges of the holes to prevent cracking of the veneer.

  • Trimming the veneer

I used an X-Acto knife to trim the veneer to the perimeter of the dash and all of the interior holes. Take your time and replace the X-Acto blade if the veneer starts to crack and not cut. Here’s a shot of the dash after trimming:

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