The Restoration of PRRROWL
TIGER # B382000221
An Article by John Crawley
March, 2001
Page 30
SUSPENSION
Ladder Traction Bar
I designed and made my own Ladder bar suspension to keep "axle tramp" down. It differs from the design of Dan Walters control arms a bit. I made the part that bolts to the rear bell housing a single piece rather than two pieces. I used the rubber from the front locator arm of a FORD van as the pivot point under the front universal. Other than these two things the end product is similar. My suggestion is to buy Dale’s product but you can build it yourself. After I had began using the TIGER to tour in and to pull a tent trailer I removed the ladder bar to give a softer ride.
Rear Air Shocks
or
A Secret Compartment for Switches
I also opted for Air inflation shocks for the rear. These are the shocks that you use compressed air to adjust the ride height of your car. With my wide range of weight that I carry with the TIGER I find that these shocks work for me. I am sure that if you are building a street fighter you might not go with this set-up.
The people that sell air shocks want you to buy an onboard compressor for $150. I used a Wal-Mart 12-volt emergency tire compressor that I paid $15 for and it works perfectly. The switch, pressure gauge and bleed screw fit under the little flat area that is behind the armrest portion of the center counsel that is between the seats.
I cut this area out and made a small metal box to fit inside and covered it with an upholstered door. Any switches such as fog lights etc could also be concealed in here. If done with care it will even pass the scrutiny of the dreaded concours judge (providing he has not read this article).
Trailer Hitch
I wanted to put a trailer hitch on my TIGER in order to pull a micro sized tent trailer but did not want the hitch to show when it was not in use. I installed a ready-made two-part hitch - the kind that has a receiver and a detachable tongue for the ball. I used a Class II style with a one and one half inch tongue. I bolted it through the trunk floor and through a piece of 5 in. X 3 ft. X 1/8th in steel that was also bolted to the trunk floor in several places. This is solid enough to pull the kind of weight that I do. I then manufactured a new 1 1/2 in sq. tongue out of sheet metal and welded a license plate mounting plate to it. I inverted the license plate light assembly so that it would shine down and since I had not re-drilled the holes for the license plate to go on the trunk lid I was away.
To put on the trailer hitch I pull the retaining pin, remove the plate holder and install the ball tongue. I have a holder on the trailer and slip the plate holder into that so that the car plate is still displayed. The conversion from one to another takes about 20 seconds. I had thought of using a fold down assembly like the old chevs had to hide their gas cap but the plate would not be displayed then and problems might arise with the local police.
When I am driving the car without the trailer the plate sits below the rear bumper, hides the hitch receiver and gives the car a rather clean look from the back.
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