Subject: RE: brake
solutions/wheel
spacers
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999
16:50:53 -0600
From:tsmit@novatel.ca> Theo Smit
Mike, Bill, and Listers,
If you're using spacers, then you have to make sure that there is enough thread engagement on the studs. How much is "enough"? If you capture a diameter's worth of thread that's probably enough, so long as the nuts you're using are made of a decent material. This caveat applies specifically to 'shank lugnuts' where the small diameter cylindrical part that fits into the wheel actually takes a lot of the load. They make 'long shank' lugnuts for use with spacers, where the shank extends into the spacer's stud holes. This ensures that there is enough thread engagement, and also serves to locate the spacer.
Since the LAT-70 wheels (and I'm sure a lot of others, too) don't center on the hubs, but use the studs and lugs for centering, it is very important to center the wheel on the studs before tightening the lug nuts down. The method I use is to get four acorn lug nuts, and snug the wheel up by alternately tightening up the acorn nuts. When the acorn nuts are snug (let's say 10 lb-ft), they will have centered the wheel on the four studs. Then remove two acorn nuts, replace with the shank nuts, and tighten these to spec. Then do the remaining two studs.
This method may not be necessary if you have shank nuts that actually fit the holes in the wheels properly (i.e. without a 1/32" or so gap all the way around).
Theo Smit
tsmit@novatel.ca
B382002705
Jim _____
Bill Hagedon
In a message dated 5/20/99 7:52:42 AM
Pacific Daylight Time,
SLaifman@SoCal.RR.com writes:
> I do believe that Bo has resurrected a treasure for us all to enjoy. As
> far as wheels are concerned, I am not certain how Ken originally
> presented the car, but most of us know that the production model did not
> offer the wire wheel option of the Alpine. The V-8 would rip the spokes
> from the rim, and strip the tiny spline in short order. Ken was a first
> class mechanic, car designer, and race driver. It is very possible for
> him to have made that decision, but not having seen pictures of the
> original, I don't know.
Back in Sept 1998, when there was a discussion on this list of the American Racing "Silverstone" wheels as used on the Miles prototype, I posted a story from Ian Garrard to the list (see Mark Olson's archives for the complete thread). Published in the September 1977 issue of the STOA newsletter, Ian's letter specifically stated that the car originally had wire wheels. Since memories are obviously pretty short, here is the letter again:
Listers,
My neighbor has a set of those finned aluminum wheels that came stock on late 80's through early 90's Mustang 5.0 GT's. I think they may be 15x8 or 15x7. They will bolt right on to a Tiger if you run a 50 series tire. They have old Goodyear 60 series Eagles on them now. He wants them out of his garage, anyone interested ? He'd let them go for cheap. Let me know, I'll pass on all offers. Wheels are located in north San Diego county. They are in perfect condition. The rubber is just about gone.
Mike
Subject: RE: brake
solutions/wheel
spacers
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999
16:50:53 -0600
From: Theo Smit
Subject: Re: brake
solutions/wheel
spacers
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 1999
11:10:12 -0700
From: Steve Laifman
To: Theo Smit
CC:
References:
1
Adding to Theo's advice. It is a good idea to re-torque the nuts on aluminum wheels after a tankful of gas. They tend to loose a little, just like head gaskets MUST be re-torqued after first use.
Steve
--
Steve Laifman
Jim _____ Bill Hagedon
In a message dated 5/20/99 7:52:42 AM
Pacific Daylight Time,
SLaifman@SoCal.RR.com writes:
> I do believe that Bo has resurrected a treasure for us all to enjoy. As
> far as wheels are concerned, I am not certain how Ken originally
> presented the car, but most of us know that the production model did not
> offer the wire wheel option of the Alpine. The V-8 would rip the spokes
> from the rim, and strip the tiny spline in short order. Ken was a first
> class mechanic, car designer, and race driver. It is very possible for
> him to have made that decision, but not having seen pictures of the
> original, I don't know.
Back in Sept 1998, when there was a discussion on this list of the American Racing "Silverstone" wheels as used on the Miles prototype, I posted a story from Ian Garrard to the list (see Mark Olson's archives for the complete thread). Published in the September 1977 issue of the STOA newsletter, Ian's letter specifically stated that the car originally had wire wheels. Since memories are obviously pretty short, here is the letter again:
Listers,
My neighbor has a set of those finned aluminum wheels that came stock on late 80's through early 90's Mustang 5.0 GT's. I think they may be 15x8 or 15x7. They will bolt right on to a Tiger if you run a 50 series tire. They have old Goodyear 60 series Eagles on them now. He wants them out of his garage, anyone interested ? He'd let them go for cheap. Let me know, I'll pass on all offers. Wheels are located in north San Diego county. They are in perfect condition. The rubber is just about gone.
Mike
Subject: RE: brake
solutions/wheel
spacers
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999
16:50:53 -0600
From: Theo Smit
Subject: Wheel Spacers, One more thought
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 08:15:17 -0400
From:Stuart Brennan
Depending on the wheels, there might be a reason why wheel spacers would be required. I think there are some wheels around that would touch the rear drums near the edges, leaving an air gap between wheel and drum at the lugs. The right spacer would fill the gap, and allow tightening of the lug nuts without anything expensive happening. I heard of this happening many years back, but I don't remember what marques or wheels were involved.
Stu
Subject: Re: Porous wheels
Date: Sat, 07 Aug 1999
12:33:49 -0700
From: Steve Laifman
To:Tim Ronak
CC:
"Tiger's Den"
References:
1
Tim,
The air seeping thru the aluminum wheels is really due to a poor porous casting. Easy cure - use tubes, or wire wheel type inner liners, or rubbery coatings to seal small fissure paths.
Of course this doesn't alter any strength loss a real crack may have caused. A clear coat over a powder coat is the usual technique for the new wheels, and they look pretty good. See the Panasport. The new factory ones they choose to chrome are of much better quality than our early technology cast wheels, or after market cheapies, and their costs reflect this. Pretty flashy for a sixties car anyway.
Well, anyone is entitled to their taste. Thanks for the hints on clear-coating old wheels, though, and the caution about racing heat.
I have some stuff called Never Dull I got at Pep Boys. It comes in a can, and has cotton soaked in a chemical. Tear of a wad and rub it on the polished aluminum and in really shines it up with no abrasive action, or hard rubbing. Shouldn't be used on the non polished cast surfaces, though.
Steve
--
Steve Laifman
>
B9472289
Subject: Re: tires
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 1999 14:33:55
-0700
From: Bob Palmer
To: Windsor Owens
"' '"
Windsor,
I must say, for a guy with your name, it's about time you put a Ford small block in your garage. ;-)
Now, to your question, first off, I paid about twice about nine months ago more than what the AVS's are going for now. Such a deal!! You don't talk about your rims, but you should match the tire width to the rim width. Don't make the mistake of putting too much tire on a skinny rim. This is a prescription for disaster. Especially, don't put the too_big_tires_on_too_skinny_rims on the back. Radials have a lot of sidewall flex, plus the slip angle will be somewhat greater too. This will make your car's handling very twitchy and perhaps unpredictable under extreme circumstances. Now, maybe your rims are wider in back, which if this is the case, ignore the preceding comments. The rims in front should have the maximum possible rear spacing. This is both for appearance and for handling and driveablility. (It's good to have the steering axis intersect the road not too far inboard the center of the tire contact patch.) The problem with 13" rims is you can't get as much negative offset as with 15" rims. Also, as I'm sure your aware, the tire choices for 13" rims is next to zip. What would probably be best up front are 195's, but alas, they don't have them in this size. Assuming your rims are wide enough to handle the 205's, then you might consider adding a little more negative camber up front. Having -1 degree camber will probably tuck those puppies right under the fender and might even improve your cornering too.
I have to agree with Bob "Herbeam" Willis' suggestion to "get some new wheels", although I would advise 15" for the reasons I've given.
My two cents for today,
Bobb
At 09:55 AM 8/9/99 -0700, Windsor Owens
wrote:
>I need some new tires for my tiger (13"). I am very fond of Yokohamas, I've
>had good luck with them on my BMW & Porsche in the past. Tire rack has some
>AVS intermediates available in 185/60/13 and 205/60/13. The 205's are
>definetely going on the back. While 205's will fit on the front, they stick
>out beyond the fender line and look stupid. For that reason, I'm inclined
>to go with 185's up front. But they sound awfully skinny, and I don't want
>the car to understeer anymore than it already does (has 205's all around,
>currently). Any thoughts out there?
>
>Windsor
Robert L. Palmer
UCSD, Dept. of AMES
619-822-1037 (o)
760-599-9927 (h)
rpalmer@ucsd.edu
rpalmer@cts.com
Subject: Re: Ackerman Angle
Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 15:07:58
-0700
From: Bob Palmer
To:,"Doug Mallory"
Lary Wright
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